We’re Off to See the Oracle . . .
. . . the wonderful Oracle of Delphi.
I forgot to mention how gorgeous Athens was. You probably noticed in the pictures, but the amazing thing about the city, in my opinion, is that there are small mountains speckled throughout the buildings, and to me it looked like someone just came along and poured the city into this basin, where the buildings just spread right around those mountains. In addition, there are orange trees everywhere, and when one finds one’s self atop one of the hills, the water is always in the distance, and the city almost looks like it continues into the water. YES, it’s dirty. Yes, the people can be a bit pushy. Yes, we got amazing weather. Nonetheless, I recommend it highly.
Moving on.
On Friday, we took a highly recommended (by Jenn & Griff) tour to Delphi, the site of an ancient Oracle, a monument to Apollo, and a village of other amazing ruins, all of which are thoroughly steeped in mythology. The basic story is that people traveled from throughout Greece to ask questions of the Oracle (”dis is a place, not a pehrson”) . A woman (the pythia) sat on a sacred tripod over the oracle, which was a crack in the ground that emitted fumes. She was ecstatic and could not be understood without the help of two translating priests. When people came, they made sacrifices and brought offerings to Apollo in exchange for answers to their questions.
Aside from the monument to Apollo and the oracle itself, the site includes ruins of each city-state’s treasury, where the small offerings were kept. Large offerings (statues and the like) were kept outside of the treasuries. On the site are also the ancient theatre and stadium. We took a bus there, and we arrived in late morning at the site. Our tour guide walked us through the museum, where we learned that the site was not excavated until the 1890’s, when they found some extraordinarily well-preserved statues. Highlights of the tour included the explanation of that statue (she points) “Dis is Socrates question mark. We are not sure,” and another statue, “Emporer Hadrian was homosexual. Dis was his lahver.” Nice. No “so they say,” no “allegedly,” just out with it already.
There were TONS of cats living in Delphi. Not so many dogs.
Delphi is also the home of the omphalos stone, which was deemed by Apollo to be the center of the Earth. You can see Andy manipulating the center of the Earth in one of the pictures below.
The most interesting thing about Delphi, to me, was that many of the stones from which the walls were constructed were covered with ancient Greek writing. Our tour guide explained that people carved their stories into the stones: “I came here on this day to ask the Oracle this question. I offered ___ to Apollo. The response was ___,” “___ was king when we started building this wall. ____ was king when we finished building this wall.” Things like that. AMAZING. I figure this blog is the same thing, except I didn’t carve it into any walls. Maybe I’ll start working on that tonight.
After checking out the monument, we took a quick visit up to the theatre, where Caton pretended to sing and I got shy; the stadium, where we wrestled and I tried to race but couldn’t find a competitor; and the fountain of youth, where I lost 10 years and for about 30 seconds (until Andy splashed in it) made Andy look like a dirty old man married to a hot teenager. Now we’re even again. Phew.
That’s about it for that day - we took the bus back (stopping for lunch on the way) made some baked pasta with the leftovers, played with Anna, who was feeling MUCH better, watched some AFN and hit the sack.
Ahhh . . . it was warm in Greece. Come on, Spring! I need the feeling back in my fingers!
PS. I love March because I think it’s a hopeful month (crocuses, some warm days, etc). Andy thinks it’s a disappointing month (you always think it will be warm and it never is). I suspect we’re both right, but I sure as heck hope it warms up before he gets back on Sunday, or I’ll definitely lose this debate for 2006.




